Year 1

GENERAL:

Your new tree's root zone is small, so it will dry out quickly. This is why new trees need more frequent watering until the roots grow outward and can soak up more of the ground water. If proper watering is performed in the first year, the tree should be well established and able to thrive mostly on its own going forward. The planting process delivers a temporary shock to the tree, so it is not unusual to see a slight, but temporary decline during the first season as the tree adjusts to its new home and conditions.

Every tree is a unique individual, with its own set of environmental, soil and underground conditions. Slopes, sunlight exposure and soil profiles can differ substantially from tree to tree in your yard, even over a distance of a few feet. These factors can lead to differences in overall water requirements, even among the same species of tree. Some adjustments in watering will be necessary for each tree.

All trees, regardless of age or size, should be given supplemental water during unusually hot and/or dry stretches of weather at any time of year, but MOST IMPORTANTLY during the hottest months of June, July and August. If extreme weather conditions are stressful for humans, they are stressful for trees.

GENERAL WATERING PATTERN:

Tree root zones should get a deep soaking (up to 18” depth ideally), then be allowed to dry out. DRYING OUT IS IMPORTANT. If the roots stay constantly wet, they will rot and the tree will die.

WHEN TO:

These are approximate time frames to think about, for starters. Late evening or early mornings are the best time to water trees and plants.

October – March: Water every 5th day that there is no rain, IF a soaking rain is not imminent.

April – September*: Water every 3rd day that there is no rain, IF a soaking rain is not imminent.

*June – August: These are critical months to monitor the weather. If the temperature is above 90 degrees Fahrenheit for a string of days, with little or no rain, more frequent watering should be done, perhaps every 1-2 days. This will require some observation and judgment. If outside conditions are stressful for humans, they are stressful for trees.

HOW MUCH:

Newly planted trees – 3-5 gallons depending on size and trunk diameter (newly planted trees are normally 5-10' in height with a 1-2” diameter trunk – gauge accordingly).

HOW TO:

Use buckets or a hose without nozzle laid down at the outer edge of the root ball. If you use a hose, you can note the time it takes to fill a 3 or 5 gallon bucket, and use the hose for that amount of time for each tree. Soaker hoses can also be used, placed around the outer edge of the root ball, and left on for several hours for a thorough soaking.

INDIVIDUAL CONSIDERATIONS:

Sun and wind exposure. If the tree is situated mostly in a shady, sheltered spot, less watering may be required. If in full sun and/or windy spot, more may be required. Drainage. Poor drainage can also affect the timing and amounts of supplemental water needed. Slopes. Slopes can cause water to run off before soaking into the ground. This should be accounted for in watering.

MULCH:

We recommend using only coarse hardwood chips or pine bark (for evergreens) of roughly 1-2” diameter. No more than a single layer of 1” depth is necessary. More than this could be harmful as it soaks up rain water before it reaches the tree roots, and does not mimic a tree's natural environment. We recommend NOT using shredded mulch, as this is often applied too deep, and can abruptly cut off the natural exchange of water and oxygen between the air and soil, which tree roots depend upon. In addition, shredded mulch left to sit over time will develop a solid crusted surface, which causes most rain water to run off and not reach the tree roots. If you use shredded mulch, go light and break up the surface once in a while.

DO NOTS:

DO NOT OVERWATER. This can be worse for your new tree than no supplemental watering at all. If the roots stay constantly wet, they will rot and the tree will die.

DO NOT USE A SPRINKLER TO WATER TREES. 2 problems with this. The water is spread too thin, and is likely not to soak deep enough into the ground to reach all of the absorbing roots.

This method also sprays water onto the tree trunk, which is not natural (does not mimic the tree's natural environment), and can lead to trunk decay, fungal infections and circulatory problems.

DO NOT WATER THE TREE TRUNK. Water should be applied primarily at the outer edges of the root ball. As the tree grows, the root ball should expand outward a few inches each year.

DO NOT FERTILIZE A NEW TREE. Soil amendments added at planting are sufficient for the tree's needs. Too much fertilizer can burn and dehydrate tree roots.

DO NOT PILE MULCH, SOIL OR ANY LOOSE DEBRIS AGAINST THE TREE TRUNK. The trunk is designed to be exposed to air and sunlight, down to where it flares outward at the base and transitions to roots. You should be able to see this root flare at the base of any tree, whether new or established.

DO NOT MAKE SUDDEN CHANGES. Any sudden change in the tree's environment, whether above or below ground, is likely to adversely affect its health, just as it would for any other living being. Over-mulching is the most common mistake made in tree care for this reason.

DO NOT “EDGE” WITHIN THE TREE'S ROOT ZONE. Tree roots tips grow upward into the top few inches of soil so they can “breathe” oxygen in the soil pore spaces. You don't see these parts of the roots, they are tiny, but they are crucial for absorbing water and nutrients into the tree where they are needed. Edging with shovels around trees severs these root tips, interrupting its absorption, reducing circulation, which then causes dieback, slower growth and more susceptibility to pest or fungal infestations. The tree then has to regrow these root tips, using up valuable energy reserves to do so